Training Equipment
What you don’t need: Corrective
“choke-chains,” prong collars, and shock collars are completely unnecessary. So are any other devices designed to frighten
your dog or to cause pain. Since kinder, painless alternatives exist in the
form of rewards and head-collars, the use of these other devices is
unnecessary, often ineffective, and even cruel. “Corrections” and other forms
of punishment can have unwanted side-effects such as aggression. Corrective collars can even collapse the
trachea of susceptible breeds and kill the poor dog. Avoid their use.
Here follows a list of training
equipment. For convenience there are two
sections: one on on “must-have”
equipment and one on “nice to have” equipment.
Must-Have
Equipment:
A crate:
The proper sizing and use of a crate has already been explained.
A leash:
preferably 4 to 6 feet in length.
I prefer a 6’ leather or nylon leash.
A chain is generally too heavy.
A buckle collar: I find a traditional-style buckle
sturdier and more reliable than one with plastic snap-on fasteners. The collar should be snug but not tight: you should be able to slip two fingers
sideways between the collar and the dog’s skin.
Certain narrow-headed breeds, such as Greyhounds, should have a
“half-slip” or Martingale-style
collar, instead. When properly sized,
this collar will prevent the dog from slipping backwards out of the collar without choking it.
Clickers:
A clicker is a small plastic
and metal device that makes a double clicking-sound. You will want to get several, because they
are easy to misplace. They are available
at most pet supply stores and online at sites such as Clickertraining.com or Sitstay.com. Most dogs take to the clicker well, but some
fearful types are afraid of the sound.
For these dogs you may want to try the new i-Click, which makes a softer
sound. You can also use a retractable
pen to make a soft clicking noise, or even make one with your mouth (if you can
make a consistent sound). The i-Click is
easier to use than a traditional clicker, so you may want to get some for
wintertime (when your hands are gloved), for clicking with your foot when your
hands are full, or if you have physical disabilities which limit your range of
motion.
A properly-fitted muzzle or the
materials and know-how to make one: See
a full explanation under the section on “handling exercises.”
Toys, especially Chew Toys: I especially like Kongs. See
“Bringing the Dog Home” and “Chewing,” above, for ideas about chewies. I also like Buster Cubes, a puzzle-like toy
the dog must roll about in order to get his treats or kibble.. Other toys depend on what you and your dog
like to do: swim, fetch, run, tug,
etc. Some toys, such as the
“Hide-a-Squirrel,” cater to a dog’s natural instinct to dissect things. They require extra supervision to use but can
be loads of fun! Most dogs like
balls. If you buy tennis balls, make
sure they are the type made especially for dogs. Regular tennis balls are pressurized; the dog
can frighten or injure himself if he punctures the ball, because it can “pop”
explosively. Also remember not to
let him use a tennis-ball as a chew toy.
It can cause a potentially-lethal blockage of the digestive system. If you want to teach your dog to catch a
Frisbee, you might want to start with a softer, slower toy called a Floppy
Disc. Remember to throw it low so the
dog does not injure his back and legs when he jumps to grab it.[1]
Tasty treats: These are to reward the dog, as explained
below. What to use actually varies
with the dogs and the circumstances. See
“Types of Rewards to Use,” below, for more information on treats and other
rewards.
[1]
Whatever toys you use, it is often best to rotate them so the dog remains
excited about them. Training toys should
be “limited access” toys: your dog only
uses them on very special occasions.
Give your dog more frequent access to his chew-toys, and rotate these,
too. Removing the dog’s chew-toys when
the dog is not using them is a way to prevent resource-guarding (the toys
belong to you, not to the dog).
Supervising the dog around most toys helps prevent choking and
blockages. Sturdy, properly-sized Kongs
and the extra-hard Nylabones are probably the safest toys to leave with your
dog.
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