Sunday, December 29, 2013

Should I bring home a puppy, adolescent, or older dog?



Puppies

Puppies, like any babies, are awfully cute and appealing!  But anyone who has ever had a baby knows that babies take lots of extra time, attention, and work.  Many people think that dogs must be obtained as puppies in order to make good pets and to bond with their family.  This is not the case!  Adolescent and adult dogs usually bond quite well to their new families.  So take the time to think about what kind of dog really suits your needs and lifestyle before deciding on a pup.
First of all, you should consider your own schedule.  Paper-training is not the best method of training a dog if you eventually want Fido to do his business outside.  Puppies need to go outside for potty-breaks after they wake up in the morning, after naps, shortly after every meal, after vigorous exercise or play, and at timed hours.  “Timed” means in hours in accordance with the age of the pup in months plus one.  In other words, a pup that is two months old needs to go out at least every three hours in addition to the other times mentioned above.  A four-month-old, every five hours (in addition to the other times mentioned) and so on.  If you work outside the home, it is unfair to leave the puppy confined for long periods of time.  It will seriously stress the pup and hinder your housetraining efforts if he is forced to soil where he eats and sleeps. 
Puppies are prone to illnesses such as parvo, too.  They require extra trips to the doctor and a series of shots.  They go through stages, including periods of teething and chewing, and require intensive socialization at least through the age of 16 weeks.  While puppy cuteness can be an important element of bonding, remember that this cute stage only lasts for a few months, or even weeks, and that your commitment to your dog will be for the dog’s lifetime.
            If you get a puppy, get one that has spent the first eight weeks of its life with its mother and littermates.  By that age, the mother will have taught the puppy that he cannot always have what he wants, a lesson you will be happy he already knows!  He will also have learned from playing with his littermates to inhibit his bites.  A puppy’s teeth are needle-sharp, so you want him to have good control of those jaws! 
 
Puppies and Socialization

You must also be committed to socializing your puppy.  There is a critical period of socialization up until the pup is about twelve to fourteen weeks old.  During this time, he is open to new people, places, animals, and experiences.  After this period it is much harder to introduce things, people, or events that are new.  Invite people over, and make sure the puppy has some positive experiences with them.  Make sure to include people of both genders, of various races, and children of different ages.  Supervise and manage carefully, particularly around children.  Puppies go through a fear imprint period between eight and nine weeks of age and one traumatic event (such as a child accidentally dropping or stepping on him) could affect his behavior negatively for life.  Once the puppy has had his first set of shots, your veterinarian will probably tell you it is ok to expose him to other nice puppies and dogs.  Take him on some play dates with other nice canines in your neighborhood, or enroll him in a puppy class that schedules time for the pups to play together.  Continue to introduce him to new people, places, and experiences through the first year of life and beyond.  If socialization sounds like too much work, you shouldn’t get a young puppy. Consider an adult or teenage dog, instead, that already has good social skills.
Why?  Proper socialization is one of your responsibilities as a dog owner.  The following quote from the Dogs Scouts of America website explains it nicely:

Properly socialized dogs are not fearful of a particular age group, skin color, or body type. If they are not fearful, they are less likely to run away from these people, bark at them or bite them to try to make them move away. Poorly socialized dogs lack confidence. These are the dogs that might bite a child in the face if cornered. They may pull out of a collar and run away in fear of a stranger. They may bark at the sight of every strange thing that they never became accustomed to during their socialization period—people in wheelchairs, people wearing funny hats, people who walk with a limp. These biters, bolters and barkers often end up with a one-way ticket to the dog pound—all because they were never properly socialized as puppies.
                                                (http://www.dogscouts.com/puppyraising.shtml#SOCIALIZATION)

The intense efforts at socialization last until the puppy is through the first twelve-to-sixteen weeks of age.  You should continue to socialize your dog as he gets older, too.  Give him regular opportunities to interact positively with other people and nice dogs and to visit new places.  Positive interaction includes petting, being fed nice treats (preferably by hand), and playing off-leash (in a fenced area) with a variety of dogs that like other dogs. 
How much interaction Fido has with other dogs is a judgment-call on your part.  If your dog becomes aggressive or is a bully, or if he belongs to a potentially dog-aggressive breed such as a pit bull, you should limit Fido’s playtimes to doggy “friends” he knows well and likes.  Think twice about allowing a very big dog to play with a very small one, because there is an increased chance of injury.  Since being leashed can increase dogs’ tendencies for aggression, realize you need not take Fido up to every dog he sees on your walks in an effort to “socialize.”  This is especially true if you don’t know what the other dog is like!  Plan your introductions carefully.

Adult Dogs

Adult dogs have more ingrained habits.  A 4-year-old dog that chases cars, growls at the mailman, or has other undesirable traits will take more effort to re-train than a younger dog, to be sure. And not every thoroughly-learned, unwanted behavior can be changed at all.  But the dog will still be able to be trained at 4 years (and even older). You can train an old dog by using positive training methods like those I advise in this book!
There are also advantages to older dogs.  First, an older dog that has had positive experiences with a variety of young children is often calmer and more predictable around them than a puppy or adolescent.  Second, a senior dog may need less in terms of exercise, making him well-suited to a home that cannot provide a fenced-in yard and long walks.  Third, unless they have medical problems, older dogs (once trained) can tolerate longer periods of time between visits to their bathroom-spot.  Fourth, there is also the principle of WYSIWYG:  What You See IS What You Get.”  Through careful inquiries and observations, you can often find a dog that is already housetrained, or used to children, or one that meets your needs in other ways. 
Older dogs can be awfully cute, too!  My experience is that they are perfectly capable of bonding well with their families, especially when trained using the methods I shall describe.  Older dogs probably have had some or all of their shots, but you need to check; you cannot assume the dog’s former owner has been responsible. 
Adolescent Dogs

I myself often adopt “teenage” or adolescent dogs (somewhere from 5 to 7 months old).  They are old enough that by spending some time with them I can get a general idea of their personalities, how they get along with other animals, kids, etc., but they are still young enough that I can affect most of their behaviors with training before they reach adulthood.  Sadly for them, they are old enough that the “puppy cuteness” has worn off, so it is certainly harder for them to find homes than for the puppies.  Because they can go longer between bathroom breaks and are less likely to chew indiscriminately, I personally find they fit my lifestyle quite well.  By spaying or neutering these dogs as soon as possible I avoid some of the problems that usually accompany adolescence

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