Sports for dogs? You bet!

Sports

You may have an athletic, high-energy dog that needs work to do.  You may live an active lifestyle, yourself, and you just want to include your canine friend.  Once you have trained a variety of basic behaviors, you and Fido might even be looking for a fresh challenge.  There are a variety of competitive and non-competitive sports and other events for your consideration.  The Dog-Play website listed under “Further Resources” has a list of potential activities from Agility through Weight-pull.  I will explain a few popular ones here. Not every event will be available where you currently live, however.  Try to find a dog performance or training club nearby, and check out the offerings.  Find activities that suit the kinds of things the dog likes or was bred to do.  Be sure the club or other facility espouses humane methods of training.  If you wish to compete and have a mixed-breed dog, find events that will accept mixes and dogs without papers.  The AKC has very limited opportunities for mixed-breed dogs, for example.  The UKC is more open.  Be sure your dog has had a thorough check-up and your veterinarian’s approval before starting sports.  Puppies, particularly, should be old enough that their bones are well-developed before beginning any type of program that involves jumping.

Agility:   

This is a combination of a race and an obstacle course, including a variety of obstacles, such as jumps, tunnels, weave-poles, and a ramp called an “A-frame.”

Competitive Obedience: 

This is work for your dog’s mind and a chance to show off his training.  The AKC, UKC, and other clubs sponsor events.

Flyball: 

This is a canine relay-race.  There are four dogs on a team.  Each dog takes a turn sprinting down a short course, jumping over four hurdles, triggering a lever on a box to release a ball, catching the ball, and returning over the jumps to the handler.  If your dog loves balls, tug, and jumping, this may be the sport for you, especially if your dog is fast or under 12” tall at the shoulder (called a “height dog” because the height of the jumps are set in proportion to the height of the smallest dog on the team.  The lowest jump is 8”).  Your dog needs to be (or become) comfortable with people, other dogs, and loud, distracting environments.  Trainers must be patient and figure on at least six months, and most likely much more, to prepare a good dog for competition.

Pulling: 

Dogs that like to pull will be happy if you harness this energy and put it to work, either in a competitive or non-competitive situation.  The dog can be trained to pull a cart (carting) or a person on skis (skijoring) or a scooter (scootering) or a sled.  A dog that has been trained and conditioned to pull a sled with heavy weights can compete in weight-pulling events.

Running: 

Train your dog to run beside you when you head out for your morning jog.

Biking: 

I have already mentioned that my dog, Aqua, likes to pull.  She also likes to run.  I have purchased her a harness and taught her to trot beside my bicycle with a safety-device called a Springer that takes up to 90% of the force out of the dog’s (sideways) pulls and lunges.  She gets plenty of opportunities to pull the bike and run on cool spring and fall mornings, and she loves it! 

The Springer requires some coordination and care to use safely, so biking should be an adults-only pastime.  Helmets are mandatory.  Other rules are to always check the dog’s pads and feet for wear or injury before starting, and to stop to give the dog a potty-break within the first 15 minutes.  Always stand astride the bike while you hook up and remove the dog, and attach a leash to the dog’s collar for safety should the dog break free of the Springer, which attaches to the harness. Another rule is to stop while the dog still wants more, and to take care not to overheat the animal in warm weather.  Carry water and offer it frequently, too.  Take into consideration your dog’s size and training before deciding that biking is for you.  I wouldn’t ‘cycle with a dog that weighs less than about 40 pounds, and I would make sure he knows commands like stay, wait, leave-it, etc., before beginning.  It is safest for you and for the dog’s joints to move no faster than a brisk trot, and to watch for surfaces that might be dangerous or painful for you or the dog.  Pavement is too hot for the dog’s pads in the summer sun, for example.  Broken glass, sand, and pebbles present other hazards.  Remain alert and keep a sharp eye out.  There are other bike-riding products out besides the Springer, and these rules will be helpful no matter which you use.  Another product out is called the WalkyDog Bike Walker (available through Sitstay.com).

Lure-coursing:

This is another event for dogs that like to run and chase things.  It was developed to give sight-hounds some of the work they were bred to do.  Many clubs have “fun days’ when other dogs are allowed to give it a try.  The dogs typically chase a plastic bag attached to a rope.  The bag is pulled along at whatever speed is required to stay just ahead of the dog.