Purebred or mix? And how to research purebred dogs

Purebred or a Mix?

My own dogs have mostly been mutts.  I prefer to save a life, and it is generally harder for the local shelter to place mixes than purebred dogs.  On the other hand, I can well understand why some of my friends desire purebred dogs.  They want a carefully-bred dog that is likely to have a particular temperament, for example, or they want a dog that can easily be trained to perform a particular kind of work.  I have learned through experience that a ball-crazy border collie can be much more easily trained for Flyball than many other dogs.  If I wanted a retriever for duck-hunting, I would probably try to find a well-bred Labrador from strong hunting lines.  It is also easier to get an idea of the adult size of a purebred puppy than a mix.  On the other hand, I love my mutts! I have enjoyed working with them to find out what their individual strengths are and what each likes to do, and I wouldn’t trade them for any other dog in the world!   

The Purebred Dog

If you decide to adopt or purchase a purebred dog, you should first research the various breeds to find out more about the various dogs’ temperament, needs, typical health issues, etc.  Breed research is even helpful if you plan to get a mixed-breed, in case you can find out (or make an educated guess) regarding the mutt’s parentage.  There are many books and numerous websites to explore for this purpose.  The American Kennel Club (AKC) and United Kennel Club (UKC) websites have detailed information about most breeds.

 Once you have narrowed down your search, you will also find it a very useful technique to research the national breed club websites and any available breed rescue sites before making a final decision.   I find the better breed-rescue sites provide a wealth of honest information about temperament and health issues common to the breed.  Some strains of Italian Greyhounds, for example, break their legs easily and unexpectedly when young.  Australian Cattle Dogs (also known as Blue Heelers, Red Heelers, and Queensland Heelers) tend to be active, intelligent dogs that are suspicious of strangers and protective of their property and family.  Chows can be aloof and independent.  Many of the bull breeds, and particularly Pit Bulls, become dog-aggressive as they reach maturity, even when trained, socialized with other dogs as puppies, and otherwise loved and “raised right.”  Responsible owners will keep pits out of dog parks after the age of nine months (or even earlier if they show any signs of dog aggression).  I learned all of these facts about these types of dogs from their respective breed-club or breed-rescue sites. 

Many purebreds tend to have particular needs regarding exercise and grooming. Be sure to be committed to meeting these needs in terms of time and money.  My own rescue, Elvis, is a pure-bred Walker Hound rescued from our local shelter, which takes in many hounds and beagles. I knew before I brought him home that young Walkers have extremely high energy levels. They can make good house pets if given off-leash running or miles of walking every day. He burns off lots of energy playing with our other dogs, but he still begs for walks and gets into mischief when he does not get enough walking, even now that he’s approaching middle age. He steals items from our kitchen or den, for example, and races with them through the dog-door to pile them up in our backyard, where our rescued beagle chews them up. Luckily, I did my research first and have been prepared to meet Elvis’ needs. When he acts up, I realize his behavior is normal, and I blame myself rather than my dog. Time for a walk, and to put items out of his reach.

One site with good information about breeds that commonly wind up in animal shelters is available through the Petfinder.com online library.  There are also some free online quizzes such as at SelectSmart.com that can help you find appropriate breeds of dogs for you. Once you have narrowed down your breed(s), by all means, attend some dog shows and make connections with some breeders to learn some of the finer points about pedigrees and what to look for.

Beware of any site that recommends “rare breeds.”  Many rare breed registries are disreputable and try to make money off of an unsuspecting public.  Also beware of breeders who advertise “rare colors” in your breed.  Any markings or discolorations that do not appear in the official breed standards make the dog less valuable, not more.  You might like the mis-markings in a pet-quality dog, but you should certainly not pay more for them!  Certain colors are associated with health problems, such as deafness, in various breeds, and are unacceptable by breed standards for this very reason.  White American Bulldogs and German Shepherds are prone to being deaf, for example. Doing your homework now can save you frustration later.

Where to get a dog or puppy

Where to Get a Dog or Puppy

Purebred and even mixed-breed dogs can be purchased or adopted from a variety of sources, including rescues, foster homes, newspaper ads, the internet, animal shelters, pet shops, and breeders.  Some breeders are reputable, others less so.   Beware that there is such a thing as a “puppy mill.”  It is best not to buy a pup from a pet shop, because the odds are high that the puppy came from a mill.  Puppy mills are businesses that care about profits instead of the good of the dog or the breed.  They breed the mother dogs as frequently as they can, with devastating consequences to her health.  They keep the mother and litters in cramped, filthy conditions.  Mom and puppies get no exercise or socialization, and they usually have health and temperament problems.  Buying from a puppy mill, whether directly or through a pet shop, encourages the puppy-millers to continue their abhorrent practices. 

Newspaper ads are sometimes placed by puppy millers trying to sell directly to the public or by amateur breeders who are selling a less desirable-quality pup.  Puppy millers are also increasingly advertising online.  A fancy website is no guarantee of a quality dog.  Therefore do not purchase your puppy from a newspaper ad, and do your research first before dealing with anyone who advertises on the internet.

Getting a Dog from a Breeder

When looking for a breeder, try to find one that has a good reputation and references.   Local training clubs, veterinarians, groomers, and kennel clubs can be a good source of information on area breeders.  If you have a friend who knows the breed well enough to show the breed, ask that person to read your prospective dog’s pedigree and give you an informed opinion.  Look for at least four titled dogs in events such as conformation, tracking, obedience, etc., within the past three generations. Your puppy’s breeder should accept lifetime responsibility for any puppies he produces and should take back any puppies that do not work out in their new homes for whatever reason for their entire lives.  You probably feel you will never need this warranty, but it shows how much faith the breeder has in the quality of his dogs and how much concern he feels for their welfare.  Your breeder will probably give the puppy his first set of shots, worming, some form of permanent identification, and have you sign a spay/neuter contract (unless you are purchasing a dog you intend to show).  He will refuse to sell puppies before they are ready, usually not before 8 weeks age.  Good breeders will make sure their puppies have been socialized to people and places beyond the kennel before you even take him home.  

When looking for a breeder, beware of anyone who tries to sell a mixed-breed dog or a “custom” breed for high prices.  Some unscrupulous folks have been popularizing crosses such as Labradoodles (Lab-Poodles) and Goldendoodles (Golden Retriever-Poodles) as non-shedding and non-allergenic family pets.  First of all, no dog can be guaranteed hypo-allergenic.  People tend to react to an animal’s saliva or dander, not to the hair.  Some breeds do tend to shed dander more quickly than others, but nobody can predict how an allergy sufferer will react to a particular animal or breed.  Second, no breeder can reliably predict or guarantee what combination of genes will wind up in a mixed-breed dog.  The Lab-Poodle cross could wind up with the Poodle’s intelligence and the Labrador’s coat and retrieving instincts, for example, and shed his oily coat all over the house.  You may like this particular dog, or this particular mix, but you should not be paying the kinds of prices the breeder of a registered purebred of good lineage can demand.  You are basically purchasing a (hopefully) nice mutt, not a “designer dog.”  Also, not everyone offering “rare breeds” on the internet or elsewhere is ethical.  Let the buyer beware.

Breeders who follows my general guidelines for breeding purebred dogs would never sell their puppies through a pet store, because they plan to screen the buyers carefully to be sure of a good home for their dogs.  Be prepared to answer many questions before you receive your pup.  The breeder may want to know whether you have a fenced-in yard, plan to participate in dog sports such as Agility or Flyball, have children, etc.  These questions are part of their efforts to decide whether your family and a particular puppy are the right match.

When you locate a breeder, ask for and check references from people who have purchased puppies from prior litters.   If these are satisfactory, ask to visit the property.  Do not visit the puppies during the initial visit.  They are so cute and fuzzy it will be difficult to go home without one!  The premises should be clean.  Ask to meet the puppies’ mother and father, assuming the sire is on the property.  They should both be friendly with no signs of shyness or aggression at all (no excuses!)  If you are not completely satisfied with the parents’ temperaments, leave and find another breeder. 

Since you have taken the time to read up on your breed, you will probably have questions about typical genetic problems.  Regarding the dogs’ hips, ask for the OFA ratings on both parents, not only the OFA number. Ratings can be excellent, good, or fair. Chances of good hips in the offspring are better when parents are rated good or excellent; obviously an excellent rating in both parents is most desirable.  The breeder may even want to show you the parents’ X-Rays. 

Once you are satisfied with the pedigree, the breeder’s premises, and the temperament and health of the parents, only then is it time to visit with the puppies.  Spend time with them, observe them carefully, and listen to the breeder’s advice about what would make the best match for you.  You probably want to avoid any puppies that seem overly timid or pushy.  Remember to pick one that seems lively, bright-eyed, friendly, and healthy.  Plan to take it to the veterinarian for a checkup shortly after you bring it home. The same is true if you get a dog from a rescue or animal shelter, as detailed in my next post.